Stone Wall Cafe
Brunch - the perfect invention for those of us who drink hard on a Friday night and can't be bothered cooking the next day. Even better, you don't have to do any washing-up. I decided to innovate this year as my birthday approached (don't ask which one unless you're feeling brave), so I issued invitations to a Birthday Brunch rather than to my usual pub-session.
Stone Wall does not take reservations for brunch and a queue does form on a Saturday so you have been warned. We managed to surface in time for a noon kick-off and arrived just after a couple who were drooling 'Oooh yes, this is the place' over the menu-board outside. Yes. This is the place.
The welcome from the staff was friendly and enthusiastic. Brunch should be an erratic feast with friends coming and going as hunger and hangovers dictate, and I thought they coped perfectly with that and our somewhat chaotic style of ordering and paying at different times. One problem they do have is space - the last couple of tables are practically in the miniscule kitchen with the busy chefs.
Six friends managed to arrive during the following hour, a fairly good turnout considering the culprits involved, so we were able to sample widely. The selection available ranged from the traditional Irish fry-up, through Italian bread sandwiches, thai-style salads and pancakes, concluding with egg-dishes. Not bad variety for a meal as loosely defined as brunch.
The décor is simplicity itself, bare wood and brick where possible and unfussy table settings. The mood was busy and chatty with the main room being dominated by the large white head emerging from one wall. I'm still not sure what this is supposed to be, but I like it.
The traditionalists amongst us plumped for the fry, which was large and well cooked but unadventurous. I assume this was a case of 'if it ain't broke, don't fix it'. The fry-up brigade decided that it hit the spot. Next was the chicken and 3 herb ciabatta sandwich with potato wedges. The sandwich was declared tasty but the 3 herbs all looked like rocket to me. The two heartiest eaters fell victim to the lure of the homemade pancakes with strawberries, cream and maple syrup. Despite roaring appetites they failed to finish their 3 pancakes each but their broad smiles were sufficient testimony to the flavour, especially when coupled with licked fingers. The large option here apparently consists of 7 pancakes, so you may need to refuse food for a few days in advance of that and get into serious training. I opted for the eggs florentine which consisted of a perfectly poached egg placed on a bed of wilted spinach and neat triangles of hot white toast surrounded with a subtle creamy white sauce. Just what the hangover doctor ordered.
Despite ideas of champagne cocktails, we supped non-alcoholically on this occasion. The fruit juices were freshly squeezed, the latte was luscious, and the hot chocolate was made properly which is a real triumph in a city where all too often it is a weak cocoa gruel rather than the sumptuous chocolate experience it should be. Brunch came to roughly 8 Euros per head, plus a tip. Considerably cheaper than a night on the beer and much more relaxing for me in my old age.
Stone Wall Cafe : 18 Exchequer St, Dublin 2
Phone 01 6727323
Lunch 12-5pm, Dinner 6-11pm, Brunch Sat and Sun 9-5pm
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Copyright Grace Tierney, 2003